In June 2017, Alex Honnold etched his name into the annals of climbing history by accomplishing what was once deemed impossible: free soloing Freerider, a route on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park. This feat, the first and only free solo ascent of a grade VI route on El Capitan, captivated the world and cemented Honnold’s status as a legendary figure in the realm of free solo climbing. To understand the magnitude of this achievement, it’s crucial to delve into the specifics of the route itself – Freerider.
Freerider is not just any climbing route; it’s a 3,000-foot (approximately 900 meters) vertical challenge etched onto the southwest face of El Capitan, a granite monolith that looms large in Yosemite Valley. Graded 5.13a on the Yosemite Decimal System, Freerider presents a formidable test even for roped climbers, let alone for someone attempting a free solo ascent, where any mistake could be fatal.
Honnold’s ascent began in the pre-dawn hours at 5:32 a.m., as he donned his climbing shoes and started up the wall. The initial section of the route, known as Freeblast, consists of ten pitches of slab climbing, a style characterized by its smooth, featureless rock and reliance on friction. These pitches, while relatively lower in difficulty compared to the crux sections higher up, demand precise footwork and unwavering focus right from the outset.
Alex Honnold executing a free solo climb on Cosmic Debris (5.13b) in Yosemite, showcasing the technical skill required for such ascents.
After navigating the Freeblast section, Honnold reached Mammoth Terraces, a large, sloping ledge on El Capitan. From this point, the route takes a slightly unusual turn. Instead of following the standard Freerider line directly, Honnold downclimbed approximately 190 feet to reach Heart Ledges. This deviation was strategic, allowing him to bypass a notoriously challenging 5.11c slab move higher up on the standard route. From Heart Ledges, he then climbed an unbolted 5.10 face, further circumventing the more difficult slab section. This early variation showcases Honnold’s intimate knowledge of El Capitan and his meticulous planning to optimize the route for a free solo ascent.
Continuing upwards, Honnold again diverged from the typical Freerider path to tackle the Monster Offwidth. Instead of entering the Monster Offwidth at its usual, higher starting point, he accessed it lower down, opting for a 5.10d variation to avoid an exposed 5.11d downclimb traverse. Offwidths, cracks that are wider than fists but too narrow to fit a body inside, are notoriously strenuous and technically demanding, even with ropes and protection. Soloing a 200-foot offwidth section adds a significant layer of complexity and risk.
Beyond the Monster Offwidth, Honnold rejoined the standard Freerider route, approaching one of its most iconic and mentally taxing challenges: the Huber Boulder Problem pitch. This pitch, located approximately 1,700 feet above the ground, is graded V7 in bouldering terms, translating to delicate and powerful movements on a blank slab of rock. At this height, with thousands of feet of exposure below, the Huber Boulder Problem represents not only a physical crux but also a profound psychological test.
Above the Boulder Problem, the route continues relentlessly upwards, leading to the Enduro Corners. Freerider features two pitches of 5.12b Enduro Corners, typically climbed separately with belays in between. However, Honnold, in his characteristic style of efficiency and flow, linked these two pitches into the Freerider Traverse, a 150-foot horizontal section also graded 5.12b. This traverse is normally broken into three pitches with hanging belays, underscoring the sustained difficulty and endurance required to free solo this section in a single push.
Reaching Roundtable Ledge at the end of the Freerider Traverse marked a significant milestone, but the summit was still 600 feet above. These final 600 feet consist of 5.11+ crack and offwidth climbing, which Honnold dispatched in a mere 20 minutes, demonstrating his remaining strength and unwavering focus even after hours on the wall. He topped out at 9:28 a.m., having spent just 3 hours and 56 minutes on the wall.
The route Alex Honnold free soloed, Freerider, is thus a complex tapestry of varied climbing styles and challenges. It encompasses slab climbing, face climbing, crack climbing, and offwidth techniques, demanding mastery across the spectrum of rock climbing disciplines. The strategic variations Honnold incorporated, while subtle, reveal his deep understanding of the route and his calculated approach to mitigating risk. Freerider is not simply a straight line to the top; it’s a carefully chosen path, refined and optimized for the ultimate test of free solo climbing.
Alex Honnold on the Freerider route during his free solo ascent of El Capitan, captured by Jimmy Chin, highlighting the immense exposure and commitment required.
Beyond the technical difficulty of each pitch, the cumulative effect of climbing nearly 3,000 feet without ropes cannot be overstated. The sustained physical exertion, the constant mental focus required to execute each move flawlessly, and the ever-present awareness of the sheer exposure combine to create an unparalleled challenge. Alex Honnold’s free solo of Freerider was not just about conquering a difficult climbing route; it was about pushing the boundaries of human potential and redefining what is possible in the world of free solo climbing. The route, Freerider, became synonymous with this audacious achievement, forever linked to Honnold’s name and the legacy of his groundbreaking ascent.
